Antique Chair Restoration Collaboration

The front edges of this chair looked like sheaves of wheat, stringy strands of wood separating from the leg due to innumerable collisions with the drawer pedestals of its desk. The top of the back was worn bald and blonde. The finish was generally finger-marked, faded and scratched. The cushion fabric was thread-bare and worn. In short, this old desk chair looked ready for the grave.

The restoration of this chair followed the process outlined in my July 30, 2015, post Finishing Tip #5: Simple Refinishing in 3 Steps, except that after cleaning (Step 1) the damage was so bad that considerable sanding was required to smooth and recontour the legs. Because completely bare wood showed right next to wood still with color a Mohawk wiping stain (Step 2) was used to blend evenly the disparate surfaces.

The collaboration commenced at this point when I handed the chair over to the skillful hands of finisher Anthony Hernandez of J. Swiss & Co. in Tucson. Instead of the usual step 3 in my simple refinishing of using oil-based products to restore sheen we elected to spray the piece with satin lacquer using professional equipment. Prior to the clear coat Anthony used some lacquer toner as discussed in step 3 to help blend the color of the sanded areas.

The collaboration continued with new upholstery on the old seat board expertly accomplished by Fabrics That Go, also in Tucson. They also supplied the fabric itself which coordinated well with the chair color as well as the pattern being perfectly centered and suggestive of the form of the back. The holes in the seat board were so worn out that epoxy was used to fill them so that the screws holding the seat board to the frame would have some purchase.

All in all, a nice result of some collaboration.

Simple Refinishing in 3 Steps -- Finishing Tip #5

Next year will mark my 42nd year in one form or another of woodworking. During that time I've undertaken all of three furniture stripping projects, a good rule-of-thumb:  one every 14 years. Even that might be a tad too often. In the same period, however, I've been asked numerous times to refinish grandma's bureau, a set of well-worn dining chairs, a favorite old desk, a precious rocker, you name it. Rather than completely stripping a piece and starting from "scratch," I have evolved a simple 3-step process of 1) cleaning, 2) adding color and 3) adding sheen. Hardly a unique or secret process, I was inspired to post the process when a fellow woodworker complimented the fine result. Thus follows a brief description of the three steps which are applicable to most modern pieces with varnish or lacquer finish. This process may not be suitable to older or valuable antiques or any piece finished with shellac. A couple hours will usually suffice for your project as all three steps can be accomplished in rapid succession.

  Step 1 is cleaning: I used to wipe down the furniture piece multiple times with a sequence of solvents each designed to remove a certain kind of contaminant, dirt, oil, stain, build-up, etc. Now I spray on a mixture consisting of 8 parts distilled water/4 parts white vinegar/2 parts denatured alcohol/2 parts “blue” glass cleaner with ammonia. This is applied liberally and then wiped off with soft cotton rags. Repeat if necessary. This combination does a great job of general cleaning but equally important raises the grain slightly in dings, scratches, nicks and bare, worn areas. This greatly facilitates the next step of adding color back to these “holidays,” which are typically quite resistant to taking color. Let the piece dry for 30 minutes.

Step 2 is adding color: Since dirty, contaminated, damaged areas will often resist most oil stains I prefer a wiping or non-grain-raising stain of a suitable color. Use a rag to wipe it on, though a brush can facilitate adding color back into deeper scratches and dings. The noxious solvents in these stains, which require you to work in good ventilation, have several advantages:  they further clean the surface, they restore color effectively and they dry very quickly. Several tips:  keep the rag wet, but not dripping, work quickly and lightly, finish with the grain. Usually just the defective spots can be addressed, but going over a whole surface with the wiping stain often yields good results. Again, let the piece dry for 30 minutes. You may find the finish slightly dulled after this step, but not to worry.

Step 3 is adding sheen: A tung oil product like Waterlox or a varnish /oil product like Watco can be used to add sheen over an existing finish. Wipe the oil on with a well-wetted rag and remove most of it, wiping with the grain. Your goal, however, is not to remove everything you've applied.  Rather leave a thin, slightly tacky layer. Carefully put the piece aside using cloth gloves to move it, and let it dry until hard, at least overnight. If there are zones with no surface finish left whatsoever, such as the worn top of a drawer or the edge of a door or table it will be necessary to add more sheen with a spray lacquer. Where just a clear coat will suffice Deft clear lacquer spray works well as it is forgiving to the amateur and has little overspray. Should color be needed use the appropriate shade spray toner lacquer, available from woodworking supply stores.  Scratch cover can sometimes be helpful at this step for any remaining defects.

After

Needless to say, follow the product manufacturer's guidelines for disposing of wet rags due to the danger of spontaneous combustion.

 

Finishing Tip #5: Roll on the Oil

"Rollers are for houses...brushes are for furniture."  Despite nearly forty years of woodworking I am still basically ingrained in this mindset.  Even when creating this massive "three story" wall system I used a brush, albeit a large one, to apply the oil:  Solid Cherry Wall System.   However, when a fellow woodworker asked for some help in the final assembly of a 21-piece bunk bed staircase of Pacific madrone and black walnut, I offered to complete the job with a coat of oil.  The side slabs of solid madrone, some 5 feet high by five feet deep, called out for roller application.  With a four inch roller I could hit all the corners of the risers and treads, and a short extension allowed me  to reach through the windows of this a.k.a. children's fort and coat the interior as well.  Not only incredibly faster, the roller also yields a much more even coating, in this case 50% linseed oil and 50% Natural WATCO.  I don't even bother with a roller tray, but just dip the roller part way into the bucket of oil.  And, of course, HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

Finishing Tip #4: Soft and Easy Putty

Flagstaff's  preeminent outdoor chef, Lamar Haines, not to mention educator, coach and guide, used to say, "when serving pancakes, make sure to keep the butter soft and the syrup hot."  Who could not agree after trying to spread some half-frozen pat of restaurant butter over one's rapidly cooling pancakes?  When my work serves me up a bunch of nail holes to fill I take inspiration from Lamar and keep my putty soft and easy, not by rolling a little ball of it in my palms thereby making a mess of myself and any tools I'm using, but by warming the entire container of putty by whatever means is handy.  A warm container will keep the putty soft and pliable for any reasonable amount of nail hole fillings.  Most often I use a dedicated flat blade screwdriver, with it's square corners rounded, for pressing in the putty more precisely than a putty knife and with less excess.  For removing what excess is left I use a tack cloth which picks up putty well and polishes off the filling nicely with the wood's surface.

Finishing Tip #3: Drying Rack

This simple drying rack made of 2x4's permits stained, oiled, varnished, painted, lacquered, cleaned, stripped, washed, etc. items to dry in a very compact amount of space with virtually nothing but a few knife-edge contact points between the item and the rack.  The parallel sets of notches are approximately 1/8" wider than the item is thick and 1" deep.  The rack is suitable for cabinet doors, panels, cabinet sides, face frames, door frames, drawer faces, and anything else flat, such as the bookshelves shown.  The width of the notch can, of course, be adjusted for thicker stock as was done in the back half of the rack shown, but then refilled for 3/4" stock with little masonite squares.  You want to produce a slight lean sufficient to prevent the item from falling back to vertical.  Even if you were refinishing just one set of kitchen cabinet doors this rack would both increase your efficiency and preclude any marks in your stain or surface coating.  The drying rack also supports my protocol of finishing all sections of piece prior to assembly, a good subject for a future woodworking tip.

Finishing Tip #2: Fly Paper

Double-stick tape makes a great "fly paper" to prevent small parts from taking off when spraying, especially in the stronger slipstream of a spray gun.  Pictured here are the fillets used in both the shoe rail and railing of the Feb. 1, 2009 Stairwell posting.  The double-stick tape is most helpful when spraying the smallest of items such as buttons, plugs, washers, knobs, etc.

Finishing Tip #1: No-Clean Paint "Tray"

Not unusually doing a job right requires more time.   Such is the case with paint finishes where rolling inevitably produces a superior surface texture to brushing, but yet for small jobs setting up and cleaning a roller tray seems daunting.  Instead, just spread out a section of waxed paper, dip the roller slightly into the paint can, and roll out the paint on the waxed paper, adding more as needed.  There you go, a uniformly coated roller ready to use, no tray to clean up and, if you use a foam roller, a tool easier to clean than a brush.