Lean Thinking Tip# 9: The Jig Is Up

Jigs are wonderful aids in the fabrication process.  Not only do they increase efficiency but they also improve precision.  Furthermore, more craftsman joy often derives from creating a clever jig than making the product itself.  Nonetheless most jigs are one time affairs.  I sometimes revisit these and wonder how in the world do you use it?  I have not left myself "operating instructions."  As these jigs accumulate they only add to shop clutter, and often the best place for them is as shown on the left.  "The jig is up."

Glassware Display Shelf Unit

Tool Tip #15: Hose through a Door

Over the years I've pinched and cut enough hoses and wires in my shop door because it was required to keep the door shut for heating, cooling, dust, vapors, etc.  The simple solution as shown is to install two cable hole grommets on either side of the door.  These serve to permit passage through the door, prevent chafing of the hose or wire and allow easy closure of the hole with the grommet's snap-in cover (lying on the sill).  My custom office systems have always included numerous cable hole grommets, though, with the advent of so much wireless equipment, the market for these will likely decline...a warning to investors in cable hole grommet manufacturers.

See also our shop at:  FlyingCircusStudios.etsy.com

Tool Tip #14: New Grit for Sanding Sponges

The aluminum oxide abrasive used on sanding sponges typically wears off quite fast, but those sponges make excellent blocks for other sandpaper.  In fact, the grit provides a flaccid velcro to hold sheet sandpaper (same width as your block sander) or a used disc from an orbital sander.  You'd be surprised how effective even a used disc can be for contour sanding.  Note also the crutch tip on the vise's release lever...to prevent power cords drawn across the vise from pinching and getting stuck.  Am I the only woodworker to whom that's happened?

Media Cabinet

Tip published in Fine Woodworking

Woodworking Tip #12 from the Flying Circus Studios blog, "Presquare" Large Glue-ups, was just published in the August 2012 (No. 227) issue of Fine Woodworking magazine in their "methods of work" column, page 16.  I don't think you can see this column online, but if you are not a subscriber to Fine Woodworking, you can receive a 14-day free trial membership to their online edition and services by clicking on their website FineWoodworking.com.  Their hand drawn sketches of the tips are a pleasant alternative to photographs.  I began my own subscription to Fine Woodworking about a year after it commenced publishing in winter 1975, bought the few back issues that I had missed and now have the complete set, which makes a superb woodworking reference resource.  The Taunton Press has done a very fine job with this magazine through the years and keeps it nicely up-to-date with the latest developments.

See also our shop at:  www.etsy.com/shop/FlyingCircusStudios

Stand for Military Memorial Plaque

The cherry fins not only symbolize the airfoils of the three axes of flight but also represent the vanes of the jet engine thrust reverser invented by George R. Urquhart.

Desks - Coconino County Board of Supervisors Meeting Room

Lean Thinking Tip #9: Hand Tools Backstage

I've already shown the upper story of my workbench in Second Story Office, and so now take a look at the basement level.  Some 8-10 electric hand tools are stored on a lower shelf almost as big as the generous 4' x 8' top.  Each is permanently plugged into his or her own receptacle.  Each power cord has a loop secured with a zip tie to hang on a hook, thus keeping the power cord off the floor.  Each sits on a pad of foam that lets me drop the tool back under safely.  Each has it's own parting in the curtain, which keeps them all clean and out of sight.  The plate joiner is purposely pulled out a bit to show how this works, and the five inch orbital sander actually mounts outside on the bench's apron.  Thus all the most commonly used tools are backstage each awaiting the cue to make their appearance instantly on stage.

Flying Hint #7: A Lesson in Every Flight

Piloting an aircraft is an extraordinarily rich learning opportunity..  Flying requires not only motor, mental, verbal and psychological skills in a 3-dimensional environment, but also knowledge of aerodynamics, aircraft systems, meteorology, navigation, the airspace system, communications and more.  Over the years I've found it the rare flight, indeed, that does not contains some lesson, big or small, some observation, some item for improvement.  I've recorded these in "aviation notebooks," the style of the first dating my flying career, which also include tips gleaned from the experiences of others, from reading, from Wings Seminars, BFR's, etc. A periodic review helps in retention, and they make good memories too. 

Side Table -- Through-Leg Detail

Craftsman Style Side Table

 

 See companion piece: Craftsman Style Coffee Table

See replica piece: Pierced Side Table 

Five-Drawer Bureau

Small Dovetailed Desk

Fir Wall System

Overview showing disguising of architectural columns

Detail showing pull out desk and sliding closet door

Woodworking Tip # 17: TOPCOTE for Hand Planes

Your hand planes will really take off if you spray the bottom with a layer of TOPCOTE by Bostik.   I had used this product for years to clean, seal and reduce friction on the beds of my table saw, jointer, planer, etc., but then one day I sprayed it on the bottom of my jointer plane pictured to the left.  The results were scary, as if the plane now had some propulsion of its own!  Try it, and you will be a believer.  I have concluded that most of the resistance in pushing a hand plane is the dynamic friction of the sole and not the cutting done by the knife.  Polish the sole thoroughly after application.  Other woodworkers have certainly discovered this too, though Bostik does not include the suggestion on their TOPCOTE can.   It is certainly a very effective use of this excellent product.

Tool Tip #13: Miter Gauge Tightening

The miter gauge that comes with many stationary tools typically fits loosely enough to induce errors.  Unless the miter gauge guide bar is fitted with adjusters, you can still make it snug in its slot by just adding a layer of transparent tape.  In the photo I add a single layer of "Scotch" tape to one side of my table saw miter gauge bar and trim the excess with a razor blade.  The tape's thickness of .001" is all that it takes to eliminate any play, and the surprise is that this quick fix lasts several years.  A layer could be added to the other side as well if the play were really bad.

George R. Urquhart

IN MEMORY OF GEORGE R. URQUHART

Not even a year has passed that I have had to interrupt this little stream of works and tips to recognize the death of a dear friend, as well as my wife's uncle, George R. Urquhart, affectionately known as Uncle Bud.  The appellation is especially appropriate because, with little ado, he became everyone's uncle, exuding a rare warmth and interest in all whom he encountered.  Uncle Bud was inquisitive and would ask you questions, not a common trait at all.  He was an aeronautical engineer by profession, but in his retirement years became quite an avid and skilled woodworker.  Thus we shared two life interests:  aviation and woodworking, and enjoyed many a good conversation about both.  It was not even a year or so back we were discussing table saw practices.  Uncle Bud lived a full and rich 91 years, even publishing a book recently, entitled Reasons to Believe.  He will be sorely missed by all who know him.  More can be learned about Uncle Bud in the excellent obituary in the Kansas City Star:  George R. Urquhart.

Tool Tip #12: Grabbing for Arrows

I've never been a fan of carpenter's pencils, finding them imprecise, awkward and a hassle to sharpen.  What is it...a million hours of construction labor lost each year to sharpening them?  I do, however, like the better grip they provide when grabbing them from a tool belt or shop apron.  To provide that same grip on a typical pencil I glue on an arrowhead eraser.  In fact a pencil without one now feels quite naked to me.  I always have a pair handy in all the locations I need them:  a #2 for writing and a #3H for lines.  (See also Plague of Cheap Tools)  Furthermore, should you ever make that rare marking mistake you have a nice fat eraser to take care of it.

Six-Tray Pantry

Full Extension Pantry Tray Pull Out

Tool Tip #11: Sharpening a Hammer

Deadblow hammers are useful woodworking tools for both disassembly and assembly, though one hardly wants the imprint of a hammer face on either an antique slated for repair or a new piece of furniture.  The indentations, roughness and dirt on the face of the hammer shown in the picture are easily removed by a few seconds in contact with a disc sander.  The bed of the disc sander is especially useful in keeping the face of the hammer exactly parallel to the disc.  I usually bring the hammer face to the disc with the sander just turned off and winding down, since the disc at full speed tends to melt the hammer face rather than "sharpen" it.  By the way, sharpened hammers have much less tendency to slip or skid, like a student pilot.  If you've created too sharp a hammer head, relieve the corners slightly. You may even find that the disc is ever so slightly cleaner than when you started, i.e. like the work boot used to clean a belt sander in Old Sole Eraser.

Woodworking Tip #16: Slot Height for Hungarian Shelves

Judging from continuing traffic, lots of folks have viewed my method for fabricated the wedges for Hungarian shelves, and I thought it would be helpful to include a post about the appropriate slot height to use for these 2 degree wedges.  Make the slot about 1/16" bigger than the thickness of the shelf.  In this case the shelf was just over 3/4" with finish, and the slot height is a smidge more than 13/16."   Most hardwood is planed to 25/32," and so use a slot height of 27/32."  Pine is typically 3/4," slot height 13/16."  I recommend a slot depth of 1" to 1 1/4" to insure plenty of purchase for the wedges.  Hungarian shelves are definitely one of the niftiest shelving systems.  Happy New Year!

See also our shop at:  www.etsy.com/shop/FlyingCircusStudios

Top Corbel Rotunda Shelves

Artisan at the Holidays #2

     May the holiday season bring you the joy of gathering with friends and family as well as a deeper appreciation for the important people in our lives.
     For those of my readers who are artists and craft people this is also an excellent time of year to show appreciation to our patrons.
     For those of you who are instead, or additionally, my own patrons I myself offer now heartfelt appreciation, and I hope my works have provided some added joy to your everyday lives.
     You may even find, embedded in each piece, a unique gift, not just for the holidays, but deriving from the attentions proferred.  Open and enjoy it every day...and thank you for your patronage!
                         

Flying Hint #6: Flight Bag & Seat Slippage

The tendency of the front seats in single-engine Cessna aircraft to come unlocked and slip backwards on their rails has been addressed and likely fixed by Airworthiness Directives.  But I say, "What the heck?"  I put my venerable and indestructible Sporty's flight bag behind the pilot's seat, and just in case I find myself suddenly traveling aft, I won't go very far.  The bag is unlocked, and I can actually reach around and grab things if needed (the arrangement of the contents is well memorized).  This is hardly a problem for the back seat passenger as the density altitude at Flagstaff's 7000' elevation often transforms this 4-place Cessna Skyhawk into a 3-place aircraft.  Of course, if I take the advice I gave to my flight students and keep a gentle touch on the yoke, any surprise seat slippage would result in loosing one's grip rather than having the nose point skyward.

15 Woodworking Tips

Woodworking Tip #15 -- Pseudo Tabletop -- a way to maintain proper alignment of a table top and it's base during fabrication

Woodworking Tip #14 -- Norse Fasteners for Tabletop --  using these very strong and adaptable fasteners to attach a table top to its base

Woodworking Tip #13 -- Doublesticking Drawer Faces  --  a method to keep drawer faces properly positioned on a drawer while the two parts are screwed together

Woodworking Tip #12 --"Pre-square" Large Glue-Ups -- a major helping hand in maintaining the squareness of a structure or carcase while the final glue-up is done

Woodworking Tip #11 -- Curvaceous Corners -- a decorative and error-concealing treatment to solid wood edging applied to plywood shelves

Woodworking Tip #10 -- Traction for Plywood -- keeping extra weight over a pickup's rear wheels while still allowing the space required to transport plywood sheets

Woodworking Tip #9 -- Wedges for Hungarian Shelves  -- a quick way to make wooden wedges for Hungarian shelves or most any other purpose

Woodworking Tip #8 -- Anti-Skid Miter Gauge -- preventing lateral movement of a piece of wood placed against a miter gauge and enhancing safety

Woodworking Tip #7 -- Doweling Jig Stability -- a sure method to keep a doweling jig from tilting while boring a dowel hole in end grain

Woodworking Tip #6 -- Magazine Storage -- a small addition to shelving for magazine storage that keeps all the issues parallel and vertical

Woodworking Tip #5 -- Velcro's New Coat -- an obvious way to use a PSA sanding disc on a sander equipped with a hook and loop type pad

Woodworking Tip #4 -- Level Biscuits -- attaching a line level to a plate joiner in order to keep a biscuit slot parallel to a board's surface when the joiner's bed is unsupported

Woodworking Tip #3 -- Old Sole Eraser -- a cheap and usually available "eraser" to clean sanding belts or discs

Woodworking Tip #2 -- Corner Cut Outs -- a method to assure equal multiple corner cut outs using a table saw sled

Woodworking Tip #1 -- Precision Chops -- pushing a miter saw to the same precision slices produced by a knife trimmer

Finishing Tip #5: Roll on the Oil

"Rollers are for houses...brushes are for furniture."  Despite nearly forty years of woodworking I am still basically ingrained in this mindset.  Even when creating this massive "three story" wall system I used a brush, albeit a large one, to apply the oil:  Solid Cherry Wall System.   However, when a fellow woodworker asked for some help in the final assembly of a 21-piece bunk bed staircase of Pacific madrone and black walnut, I offered to complete the job with a coat of oil.  The side slabs of solid madrone, some 5 feet high by five feet deep, called out for roller application.  With a four inch roller I could hit all the corners of the risers and treads, and a short extension allowed me  to reach through the windows of this a.k.a. children's fort and coat the interior as well.  Not only incredibly faster, the roller also yields a much more even coating, in this case 50% linseed oil and 50% Natural WATCO.  I don't even bother with a roller tray, but just dip the roller part way into the bucket of oil.  And, of course, HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

Woodworking Tip #15: Pseudo Tabletop

The Table ("The Table") shown in my Oct 27, 2011 post has legs that are flared outward at two degree compound angles.  The resultant complex  sizing and positioning of all the pieces would have been a complete nightmare without a CAD program.  Further, to facilitate and check the registration of all the pieces during the fabrication I built a pseudo tabletop as shown to the left.  In each corner was placed a removable dowel.  As the top of each leg has a permanent dowel installed, the pseudo tabletop, with its dowels removed, was used to insure proper positioning of the leg assembly during glue-up.  This light and easy to manipulate board made it simple to insure that the finished tabletop would be parallel with the compact trestle base.  Then, with the dowels in place, the pseudo tabletop was used to position the holes which were bored in the table's brace rails and received the dowels glued in the top of the legs.  It was also used to set the spacing between the brace rails.  The dowels are merely to keep the legs in position while Norse latches provided the clamping force between the legs and tabletop, see:   Norse Fasteners for Tabletop.

Woodworking Tip #14: Norse Fasteners for Tabletop

I always design my larger, heavier tables so that the top and base can be separated, which greatly facilitates moving, repairing, refinishing, and even, heaven forbid, storage.  Last week's post (Oct. 27, 2011, The Table) shows my latest and fastest, perhaps strongest, methodology employing 4 Norse SXR latches and "J" receivers (norse-inc.com).  These stainless steel latches can exert up to 200# of clamping force, far more than is needed to keep a table and its base securely together.  Dowels glued in the top of the legs keep the alignment correct.  To my mind the latches are also beautiful and the mechanical engineering superb.  I have used Norse latches in other applications.  For instance, their fully mortised Type 2 fasteners attach the sectional pieces of my home dining booth:  flyingcircusstudios.blogspot.com/2007/05/blog-post_17.html.   In this case no hardware whatsoever is visible.  Also visible in this picture are the cushioned glass retainers that hold Chris Norlin's stained glass work (ravenseyeglass.com) in a circular rabbet and beneath the 1/4" plate glass "trivet" embedded in the table's top, stout enough to place even your big casserole of lasagna.  The light box has been removed to show these details.

The Table (Seats Eight)

See the underside too.  Note:  superthin light box is removed.  Lighting under the stained glass powered either by a small battery box or auxiliary transformer.

Companion Chair

Multi-Depth Medicine Cabinet

Center section extends a full 4" into the wall cavity, creating over a half foot of interior shelf depth, while the two side sections rest on the wall's surface.

Viking Express Bed Extension

Resultant Full Size Bed

       This was a shamefully easy woodworking project that was inspired when we purchased this incredible little tent trailer that weighs only 455 pounds and can be pulled by any compact car.  Though the two bunks and mattresses provided will each fit two people we wanted more room and padding to spin the old bones.  The solution was to create a plywood extension that mounts on spacers, resting on the two supports that hold the bunk when the unit is closed, and is supported in the middle by a removable PVC post threaded onto a fitting embedded in the plywood.

Plywood Bed Extension

Viking Express by Forest River

The plywood measures 5" x 70," but the 4" high density foam that is glued to it measures 6" by 70" providing an overhang that rests on the bunk's piano hinge and presses firmly against the existing mattress.  The separate spacers are four layers of baltic birch with a thickness of 1.875," and a carriage bolt holds the whole assembly to the metal triangles with a wing nut. The spacers are recessed from the edge of the plywood extension to allow a contour sheet to wrap around all.  Over the existing mattress and bed extension a 52" x 74" x 2" thick full size egg carton mattress topper is placed.  The bed extension and attached foam fit neatly in the trailer box against the stored mattresses when the unit is closed.  Pretty darn comfy and roomy!  Thoreau's cabin but not his bed.

See also our shop at:  www.etsy.com/shop/FlyingCircusStudios

See another use of the Viking Express as a cargo trailer:  Viking Express Camping/Cargo Trailer Conversion 

Stud Depth Cabinets

Sewing Center

Full Extension Breadboard Pull Out

Woodworking Tip #13: Doublesticking Drawer Faces

Here's a rather two-faced way to perfectly align a drawer face prior to screwing it onto the drawer.  First I support and position the bottommost face on shims before reaching into the drawer and pushing it against the face and into two pieces of fabric mesh, double-stick tape stuck to the left and right side of the drawer.  Next I use this bottom face as a base, placing the remaining faces on top of it, equalizing all the spaces with a combination of different thicknesses of cardboard.  The subsequent drawer is installed on its tracks, and it's face placed on top of the cardboard spacers, as shown askew, positioned laterally, and then pressed into the tape.  The tape holds the face in place while the drawer is screwed into its back, which can be done either inside the carcase or with the drawer removed.  Clamps can augment the process. If it's not possible to push the drawer forward I place foam behind it, just enough the make the drawer protrude slightly and provide compression for the tape bond.  The tape is left in place and provides some pretty good adhesion, though the face can still be removed.  It's a case where a stuck drawer is just what you want.

Display Lattice with Jason Bohnert's Pottery

Pottery display lattice from my July 28, 2011 post now filled with the pottery of Jason Bohnert in his show entitled "kwenCH" at West of the Moon Gallery, 111 E. Aspen Ave. #2, Flagstaff, Arizona.  The show "kwenCH" runs through the month of August.  For more information about Jason, as well as images of his beautiful work, please check out  the JB Pots website: www.jbpots.etsy.com.

See also our own shop at:  www.etsy.com/shop/FlyingCircusStudios

Small Shelf Unit

Pottery Display Lattice

Lean Thinking Tip #8: Major or Minor Seiso?

Last winter I conducted an experiment in maintaining a more perfect, uncluttered workplace.  Following the principle of the five Ss, as explained in Lean Thinking by James P. Womack and Daniel T. Jones, I dedicated the first hour of each day to the middle S, which refers to seiso.  Seiso is Japanese for purity but in this context refers to a cleanup campaign conducted on a regular basis.  This experiment was a dismal failure due to the five Fs:   Focus on current project cleanup rather than general, Failure to define discrete, smaller, doable cleanup projects, Fear of the "great mess," Frittering away time quite creatively and Fattening oneself up on a snack and a hot drink.  Then last week I dedicated an entire day to shop seiso and produced a much happier and efficient workplace.  The numerous benefits gained immediately and positively affected production.  By the way, Lean Thinking is a must read for anybody who makes anything, and though it is more directed to large corporations the concepts apply equally well to the small shop.  Hopefully, by the way, you don't find yourself prone to the five Fs.

Tool Tip #10: The Hulk's Bench Scraper

I couldn't find any green gloves for this picture, but just take a long and wide piece of 1/4" plate glass, hold it at an angle safely with thick gloves and then draw it across your workbench in several different directions.  Now you have a monster bench scraper:  off come high spots, glue drops, burrs, splinters and most any piece of debris that could scratch your work.  With repeated use such a scraper has the further benefit of flattening the top of your workbench, which is always a help for any form of glue-up.  Used with care, freshly cut glass makes an excellent scraper for wood, a practice I first encountered in the Chelsea studio of the Greek sculptor Michael Lekakis.  He used little squares of window glass for the final finish on a variety of his wood sculptures.  That's 8 crisp edges without any maddening metal scraper sharpening...the Hulk can keep his shirt on.

My Friend, Kenneth D. Ainsworth

IN MEMORY OF

KENNETH D. AINSWORTH

Rather than the usual tip or portfolio photo, I am dedicating this post as a type of permanent plaque to the memory of my dear friend Kenneth D. Ainsworth who died very suddenly on the Memorial Day just past.  Though I first met Ken back when his oldest son and our son were in Boy Scouts together, the friendship between he and his wife Kay and myself and Sara had deepened in recent years.  We shared many wonderful times together, and some of the best material for our life stories comes from instances of Ken's amazing generosity and good humor.  Ken was one of those rare people who would uplift your spirit by just coming into the room.  I can offer proof of that when Ken did the photography for our daughter's wedding.  In his photo of 17 people of the wedding party every single person shines with their very best smile.  It was easy to do for Ken.  Though a dentist by occupation Ken was a brilliant photographer and leaves a legacy of thousands of photographs, even a few in these pages.  Sara and I were very much looking forward to many years of growing friendship with Ken and his wife Kay but will now have to reset our expectations without his quiet, loving, yet powerful presence.

Tool Tip #9: Securing an Old Favorite

Throughout college my only desk was a hollow core door slab placed over a pair of sawhorses, and I still haven't abandoned this convenient form of table.  Whenever I need an additional work surface open come a pair of Trojan ( http://www.trojantools.com) sawhorses and on goes a 3-0 door slab.  A good door slab typically provides a very flat surface which is useful in assembling face frames or checking the 3-dimensional squareness of a carcase, not to mention being very much lighter than any folding table.  However, having your slab seesaw a load onto the floor is not fun.  To provide greater security for this old favorite I've added a draw tight latch to the end of each 2x4 and bolted the Trojans on as well.  The draw tight latches make attachment quick and easy with no reaching underneath the table.

Home Library -- Room #3

Home Library -- Room #2

Home Library -- Room #1

See also our shop at:  www.flyingcircusstudios.etsy.com

Woodworking Tip # 12: "Presquare" Large Glue-ups

I've found that when it comes to large glue-ups such as wall systems, shelf systems, drawer web frames, even smaller cabinet carcases, it helps a great deal if two of the pieces are already set and firm at right angles.  Really, it doesn't matter which two pieces are "preglued" before the entire carcase is glued-up, for the fact is, having a built-in "framing square" makes the final assembly so much the easier.  Pictured here an actual framing square is clamped to the side of a shelf unit to the keep a shelf square in its dado joint, though the concept would work with biscuits, dowels, or most any other type of joinery.  The bench clamp holds a stiffening stick to prevent any inaccuracies due to measuring square off a concave or convex surface.  Once the glue is set, this pair of pieces will make the larger glue-up much less unwieldy.